One of my goals for 2019 was to write more patterns. I want to write/publish one per month. Even though January was the Longest.Month.Ever, I still managed to miss my first marker. Partly because I’m new to this and partly because I’m a bit of a perfectionist, it’s probably not as great as I want it to be. But probably, they’re going to get better.
I wanted to wait until I had better photos. I wanted to wait until I got all my feedback from my test knitters. But I’m new to test knitters and my test knitters are new to test knitting. But I’m going to do it anyway. And I’m going to learn and maybe I’ll re-release it when it’s better. But here it is. If you make it and give me feedback, I will love you forever and I will send you an ad-free pdf of the pattern, and all updates when they come out.
This is a one-size pattern. If you want a smaller or bigger fit, try casting on fewer/more stitches in multiples of 3 and adjusting the total stitches accordingly. Ensure that you have an odd number of stitches for the edging stage. This will make the cardigan wider. To make it longer, knit more rows (try 24 inches of
Supplies needed
- Size 11 (8.00 mm) 32” circular needles (I love my KnitPicks!)
- Size 10.5 (6.5 mm) 45” circular needles
- 4 – 7 oz (198 g) balls Bernat Premium Tweeds yarn (or comparable yarn to achieve gauge. You will hold 2 strands together for this pattern)
- Scissors
- Yarn needle
Skills used
- Knit, purl, increase, decrease
- Provisional cast on
- Knitting in the round
Need to sharpen your knitting skills to take on this project? Check out some online knitting classes from Blueprint!
Abbreviations
- k – knit
- p – purl
- yo – yarn over
- sl1pw – slip 1 purl-wise
- k2tog – knit 2 stitches together
- ssk – slip, slip, knit
Gauge
4” x 4” = 12 stitches x 16 rows in the main body pattern. If your gauge is different, adjust by using larger or smaller needles.
Special stitches
Knit 2 together (k2tog): insert your right needle under the next 2 stitches and knit them together. This is a right-leaning decrease stitch.
Slip, slip, knit (ssk): slip 1 stitch from left needle to right needle knit-wise (as if you were to knit it). Slip another stitch knit-wise. Insert your left needle back into the 2 slipped stitches from the back and knit the 2 stitches together through the back loop. This is a left-leaning decrease stitch.
Pattern
Provisional cast on
With 2 strands of yarn held together, using 32” size 11 (8.00 mm) circular needles, loosely cast on 105 stitches with a provisional cast-on using the 45” circular needle cable for the base of your provisional cast on. Find provisional cast on using circular needle cable instructions here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8XIr2GiqjQg&t=182s
Alternate cast on
If you prefer to use a regular cast on, you may do so, but it will result in a seam along the edge where you join the cast on edge with the working edge.
Foundation Row
(WS) *k1, p1* repeat to last stitch, k1
Body
Row 1 (RS): sl1pw, p1, *k2tog, yo, p1* repeat from * to last stitch, k1
Row 2 (WS): sl1pw, k1 *p2, k1* to last stitch, k1
Row 3 (RS): sl1pw, p1, *yo, ssk, p1* repeat to last stitch, k1
Row 4 (WS): work as row 2
Continue in this pattern until work measures 22 inches from cast on edge, ending with a wrong side row.
Note: As the pattern takes shape, if you can’t remember if the last right side row was a row 1 or a row 3, pay attention to where the YO space is from the previous RS row. On each right side row, you will be closing up the space you created with the YO of the last right side row. And creating a new YO space in an alternating space.
On the WS, you should be knitting the knits and purling the purls & YOs. If you missed a YO in the previous row, it is easy to pick up a YO in the WS row.
You will notice that we are knitting the last stitch and slipping purl-wise the first stitch of every row. This creates a clean edge which will make up the arm holes.
Join cast on edge using the provisional cast on
Use the right needle of the size 10.5 circular needle that you used for the provisional cast with the left needle of the size 11 needle to work the first half of edging round 1.
Round 1 (RS): Turn. Sl1pw. K1, p1 to end of the row. Remove size 11 needle. Place a marker.
Fold the cast on edge up to meet the working edge, right side facing you and begin using the smaller needle from the cast on edge.
Join cast on edge using a regular cast on
If you used a regular cast on, pick up and knit 105 stitches along the cast on edge with the size 10.5 circular needle.
Seed stitch edging
You should now be using only the size 10.5 circular needles. K1, p1 to last stitch in round. Join to the beginning of the previous round by k2tog the last stitch & the first stitch of the previous row. This will decrease the total stitches in the round to 209.
All Remaining Rounds (RS): *p1, k1 around. The odd number of stitches means you will be knitting the purls & purling the knits, resulting in the seed stitch pattern.
Continue in this pattern until seed stitch edge measures 5 inches, using the stitch marker as your round beginning/end. Bind off with your preferred stretchy bind off. (I like this method).
Cut yarn and weave in ends.
You can add an optional button closure with a small i cord button hole loop just above chest level to help keep the cardigan closed.
It would mean so much to me if you would share my pattern on your social media platforms. Pinterest is my personal favourite!
